Panama, day 4. Expedition to find the Harpy Eagle

The group set off very early, breakfast at 4h30, to drive to the very end of the TransAmerica highway at Yaviza. From there we took a “lancha”, a motorized boat, travelling upstream on the Chucunaque river to a town called El Real.

Start of river trip in Yaviza
Cocoi Heron
Black-collared Hawk
Arrival at El Real
Red-and-Green Macaw

After the boat trip, there was a half hour or so in a 4-by-4, then another hour of walking, during which this magnificent Macaw was spotted, we entered the Darién national park, and finally arrived at the ironically named Rancho Frio.

Entrance to Darién national park
Offices of the Ministry of the Environment at Rancho Frio

After lunch at Rancho Frio, the last 30 minutes walk took us to a nest of the Harpy Eagle, today’s goal. There was a female on the nest, with a chick of about 10 days of age (the top of whose head we occasionally glimpsed) and as we were watching, the male flew off in search of prey, which are mostly monkeys and sloths.

Harpy Eagle on nest
Harpy Eagle

The Harpy Eagle has little sexual dimorphism, the identification by our guides was based on their activity, usually the female stays on the nest with the chick, while the male is out hunting.

On the trip back there were very heavy showers; we were still able to see the Great Green Macaw, a real rarity, a Wood Stork (not rare at all), and a small flock of Brown-hooded Parrots. Despite arriving back soaked through, the day was a great success.

Great Green Macaw
Wood Stork
Brown-hooded Parrot

Panama, November 2024

I was fortunate to take a 1 week trip to Panama, with “Wings“, going east to the Darien region. The guide, Gavin Bieber, was amazing, the accommodation, in fancy tents, was excellent, and the birding was exceptional.

The first night was an extra, staying in a hotel right next to the canal, although the flight was delayed, and I arrived at the start of rush hour, so it took nearly 2 hours of taxi to the hotel, traffic in Panama city is horrendous.

The next morning started well with several new birds before breakfast, including great views of the Yellow-headed Caracara

Yellow-headed Caracara

Also these other birds

Yellow-billed Cuckoo
Blue-headed Amazon
Gray-headed Chachalaca
Crimson-backed Tanager

I then walked down toward the Biomuseo, with many other avian encounters

Yellow-crowned Amazon
Common Black Hawk, immature (not yet all black)

There were many thousands of Black Vultures around, including this one

Black Vulture on Korean friendship monument
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Orchard Oriole

The Biomuseo was designed by Gehry, and is fascinating, with the geologic history of Panama well explained. The isthmus formed about 20 million years ago, followed by the Great Interamerican Biotic Interchange (apparently), with south american bids and animals heading north, and vice versa, which is what gives Panama its amazing biodiversity.

Right on the grounds of the Biomuseo were these 2 birds, one from a family originally south american, the second northern.

Barred Antshrike
Tropical Mockingbird

I then hired a bike to cycle down the Amador peninsula, constructed from rock that was excavated to build the canal, to a group of 3, what used to be, islands. On the first of which there is a Smithsonian research institute. On the way down there is a view of the city, and this sunken boat with a Brown Pelican perched.

At the research centre, just near the gate, a Hoffman’s two-toed Sloth was hanging out.

Hoffman’s Two-toed Sloth
Garden Emerald
Black-throated Mango

I then took a trip to Panama city old town, which was interesting, but marked by a tropical downpour, so I got soaked cycling back to the hotel area. An amazing first day.

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